Phnom Bakheng, Angkor Complex, Siem Reap

On the summit of a natural hill 400m south of Angkor Thom is Phnom Bakheng, the center of the first kingdom of Angkor. In 889, King Yasovarman abandoned Roulous, and built his temple on a hill, in keeping with the Hindu concept of the temple-mountain representing sacred Mt Meru. As such Phnom Bakheng can lay claim to being the first of the Angkor temples.

Sunset at Phnom Bakheng

Climb to the top at sunset for a magnificent photo of Angkor Wat and the Western Baray bathed in the warm glow of the setting sun. The stunning view on the plains below also encompasses two dominant towers – Phnom Krom to the south close to Tonle Sap lake, and Phnom Bok to the northeast. Both were built by Yasovarman as well.

Temple mountain

Like all the other temples in Angkor, Phnom Bakheng is designed on strict symmetrical lines with every structure presenting a piece of the cosmic order. It is a grander replica of the five-tiered pyramid temple of Bakong at Roulous.

Each of Phnom Bakheng’s seven levels represents each of the seven Hindu mountains.

Around its base are 44 towers and on each level leading to the top are positioned 12 towers in various stages of disrepair. On the summit, there are four sandstone towers, each positioned on the major cardinal points, standing guard to the central sanctuary. The total number of towers adds up to 108, an auspicious number with cosmological significance.

Elephant rides at Phnom Bakheng

There is an outer moat about four kms square and 200m in width, parts of which can be seen from the air. There is a smaller inner moat, and avenues radiate outward in directions of the main compass points.

It is a steep climb up to the summit, and an alternate pathway has opened up due to erosion and wear and tear of the main stairway from large numbers of tourists. An elephant ride is a fun way to get to the top for US$15 for a trip up or US$10 for the ride down. Phnom Bakheng is especially crowded in the evenings.