Angkor Thom, Angkor Complex, Siem Reap

Angkor Thom, which is Khmer for “Great City” is a fortified city which might have supported one million people in the surrounding region at its height. Built by Angkor’s greatest king, Jayavarman VII, it is laid out in a near perfect square, which runs north-south and east west. This epic complex, over a mile on each side, is centered around the famous Bayon with its iconic giant stone faces, and includes the pyramidal Baphoun.

Crocodile-filled moats

Angkor Thom is enclosed by a square wall (jayagiri) measuring 8m in height and 12 m in width. Additional protection was provided by a 100m wide moat, which 900 years ago was believed filled with ferocious crocodiles. The moat is now dry. This ancient architecture is a representation of the Hindu sacred Mt Meru surrounded by the oceans.

Gods and Demons

There are 5 enormous gates which lead into Angkor Thom, one on each wall with an extra one on the eastern wall. These massive gates are crowned by the four giant faces of what is believed to be Avalokiteshvara, the Buddha of Compassion, although some feel that they are carvings of King Jayavarman VII. The bridge leading to the south entrance is lined with large stone gods and demons, 54 on each side, in a tug of war depicted in the proverbial Churning of the Ocean of Milk, the myth of creation.

Ancient Terraces

In addition to the Bayon (described separately), the enclosure is rich with many temples and features. Among the more notable, the Terrace of the Elephants served as a giant viewing platform for public ceremonies and when the King was in audience. Measuring 350m in length, the middle section of its retaining wall is decorated with life-sized garudas, a mythical man-bird, and lions. On either end are the famous parades of elephants complete with three dimensional trunks and their Khmer mahouts.

The Terrace of the Leper King is a decorative platform which lies just north of the Terrace of Elephants. The statue which lies on the platform has a mysterious origin – some believed it to be an Angkor king who suffered from leprosy while others think it a statue of Yama, the God of Death.

Pyramidal Temples

Baphuon, a representation of Mt Meru, is being restored through anastylosis, but restoration experts are putting it together piece by piece as all records were destroyed by the Khmer Rouge. A 10 year program which resumed in 1995 is running behind schedule, but when fully restored, Baphuon will be one of the more spectacular temples in Angkor. It is approached by a long elevated sandstone walkway.

Phimeanakas or Celestial Palace, pre-dates Angkor Thom and stands close to the walled area which was once the royal palace. A little worse for the wear, it is another pyramidal representation of Mt Meru, with long steep worn steps leading to the top. Writings by Chinese courtiers relate legends of the king having had trudge up the steps every night to sleep with the resident genie or risk calamity to his kingdom.

Angkor Thom is another must for those who are visiting the Angkor Complex.