Banteay Chmar, Banteay Meanchey

Banteay Chmar is a breathtakingly beautiful temple, well known for its intricate carvings and long walls of bas-relief. It is vast and ruinous and is one of the few temples to feature the enigmatic Bayon-style giant faces with their mysterious smiles.

Built by King Jayavarman II on the site of an old Hindu temple, it is commonly believed that he dedicated to his son and four generals who died defeating the Chams in 1177. In its original state, a 9 km long wall enclosed the temple which was one of the largest Buddhist monasteries of the Angkor era.

Unique Multi-armed Avalokiteshvaras

Unique to the Banteay Chmar was a series of eight multi-armed Avalokiteshvaras, the Buddha of Compassion, which the giant faces are sometimes believed to be images of. The bulk of these were removed and taken into Thailand in an infamous act of looting. The remaining carvings, one with 22 arms and the other with 32 arms, are a dazzling display of ancient Angkor craftsmanship.

Part of the stolen wall has been returned. It was found broken into 117 pieces by the Thai police but it took a year before everything was returned as the Thais put them up on display. Along with these pieces, six garuda heads from various centuries were returned as well.

Depictions of Angkorian Life

Many of its walls have wonderful bas-reliefs which show scenes of ancient Khmer daily life. On the east wall, there is a huge bas-relief which narrates a battle on the river between the Khmers and the Chams, with the dead savaged by the crocodiles. Other scenes show a battle on land with foot soldiers and elephants.

Shop for a cause

As you arrive at Banteay Chmar, look out for the pioneering community based project. A silk weaving school teaches heritage skills to the young villagers and produces good quality silk. The French NGO, Agir Pour le Cambodge, has set up a homestay project in Banteay Chmar and organized such traditional activities as honey collecting and frog hunting.